I heard author Michael Pollan on NPR this week, and my reaction was mixed. He was discussing his article in Sunday’s NY Times Magazine, “Out of the Kitchen, Onto the Couch.” I respect Mr. Pollan’s views, what I’ve heard of them, so I wasn’t biased against him going into the interview. Then he says Food Network shows like Rachael Ray’s 30 Minute Meals and Sandra Lee’s Semi-Homemade just have “dump and stir” recipes from which no one learns a thing. He says The Food Network claims people do download their recipes, but he asks can you call that cooking?
Come on, now. That’s a bit harsh. Does this look like dump and stir?
Pollan went on to trash event shows like Iron Chef, and though I enjoy that show and learn about food from it, I don’t learn how to cook, so his point remains. Shows like Wedding Cake Challenge are tiresome. But as he went on to dismiss the hassle of making home fries and say that marketers tell him no one cooks anymore, I have to wonder if he and his people live in a culture entirely different from mine.
Houston blogger Katherine Shillcut asks in Pollan’s critique applies to her city where farmers markets are packed and the obesity rate is high. Pollan contends that one can mark the rise in obesity by the decline in cooking at home. I don’t think it’s that simple.
Perhaps, like I said, there’s a cultural blindness in play here (probably on both sides). I can’t see how so many chefs, food bloggers, and recipe makers are sustained by the mere interest in vicarious cooking. As a rebuttal, Frank Wilson points out “The Omnivore’s Delusion: Against the Agri-intellectuals” and another article suggesting food critics are about as partisan as politicians.
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